Day five: Taunton to Clevedon

Breakfast in Taunton

There’s a set of sculptures on the Bridgwater and Taunton canal: a to-scale model of the solar system, with the planets placed relative to their actual distances, and made relative to their actual sizes. There are actually two sets, stretching out either way from the sun: fourteen miles long in total, so it takes about an hour and a half to cycle from one end to the other. It’s the kind of thing you might not even notice until you’re halfway along it, when you suddenly wonder why there’s a model of Jupiter next to the towpath.

Passing each of the planets on our ride between Taunton and Bridgwater on a lovely flat canal towpath seems like the perfect start to the day. But the problem with towpaths is that they can be really hard to ride. We get as far as Neptune (i.e. the very edge of the solar system) before we decide to give up. Heavy touring bikes don’t enjoy bumping over stony ground, and the riders don’t much enjoy looking down at the path the whole time either. It’s slow going and you can’t exactly chat easily when you’re riding in single file.

Rolling through the Taunton villages

So we skip the solar system and head for the roads. Yes, there’s a bit of traffic, and yes, there’s the odd up and down, but it’s definitely preferable. You can spread out a bit, look around. It’s smooth and fluid riding. You pass through interesting villages and see the lives other people lead. The different views add interest to the ride, and the uphills give a chance to freewheel on the downs. Towpaths are wonderful for the peace and solitude and a level profile. But sometimes a road is more what we need.

We have a local guide with us today: Craig, whose mum lives in Taunton, so is familiar with the roads around here. He takes us on a super route from Taunton to Bridgwater, where we meet up with our second guest rider for the day, Jill. 

Jill lives in Hertfordshire, so this is not exactly her neck of the woods, but she and her husband were in the area having their Thorn bikes serviced. They had intended to go on a local ride together today, then discovered that our ride was passing through the area – the perfect coincidence. Unfortunately a crack in Jim’s bike’s frame put paid to his joining us, so it was just Jill waiting for us at the Canalside Centre outside Bridgwater – as it happens, just by the sculpture of Neptune at the other end of the Space Walk.

Somerset levels

It’s not just canal towpaths that are flat: for the next 20 miles we barely touch a hill, criss-crossing the Somerset levels. Roads lie at right angles, following the drainage ditches that keep the levels level. In the distance, a rare bump, and it has a distinctive tower at the top: Glasonbury Tor! The wind has found us at last, whipping across a landscape that has nothing to stop it. We roll easily through the villages and stop in a place called Mark for lunch, much to Mark’s delight.

Ahead we can see the unavoidable rise of the Mendips, but luckily we don’t have to go over them: the Strawberry line cuts through the middle, the old railway line that used to run between Cheddar and Yatton.

Tunnel on the Strawberry Line

Apart from day one, we’ve been on at least one disused railway line each day so far, and this is perfect: a wide, shady path, a great view out across the plains, a smooth surface, and an easy downward pedal to Yatton, where we raise a glass to Tim in the Railway Inn before waving goodbye to Craig and Jill.

Tim took the opportunity on his tours to enjoy plenty of food and drink, and we’re doing the same. His travels took him far and wide so there was always some unusual local speciality involved. So in his honour, tonight we have fish and chips by the sea in Clevedon, and a good old pint of Somerset Thatchers.

Clevedon pier

Stats for the day: 78km, 345m climbing

Accommodation: Bullocks Farm Fishing and Camping. Lovely peaceful setting and good facilities.


Comments

One response to “Day five: Taunton to Clevedon”

  1. I loved that you met another cycling at Neptune!! Something Tim would have put on Twitter with glee. Thank goodness for railway lines that are now cycle routes. Loving the photos and the to and fro of the cyclists who are riding with you. Just like Tim, meeting new people along the way on his adventures. Can’t wait to read the next adventure. x

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