Ivan has travelled a long way (from London) to ride what is arguably the least inspiring stretch of the whole ride. We’re also joined by Sally, who’s travelled here from Dumfries and will return home after Moffat. This is the part of the cycle network that cyclists bemoan the most: for more than 50 miles the road drags uphill, long and straight, with the sight and sound of the motorway always in the background, on a poor surface that rumbles ever upwards, with few towns or settlements to add any interest. The ‘summit’ is at Beattock, but even then, inexplicably it still goes up for 25 further miles. The downhill, when it comes, is hard-won.
The vista is incredible, of course, because this is Scotland, but it’s easy to see why cyclists find it a drag. So we create our own small moments of relief, ducking off the route into Lockerbie for breakfast, and into Moffat for lunch.
The route into Moffat is wonderful, and we wonder why the official cycle route doesn’t come this way. Yes, it adds a mile and a half, and over 300ft of climbing, but my gosh is it worth it. Instantly the road is more friendly: meandering, with homesteads and humped bridges and tree-lined stretches to add interest. For anyone planning to cycle between Gretna Green and Glasgow, take this road! It’s the minor road that forks off the B7076 just south of Johnstonebridge, signposted to Newton and Wamphrey, and thereafter signposted Moffat – the Old Carlisle Road.
Moffat itself is lovely, with plenty of places to eat and drink, and while overall the elevation gain of going this way is much greater than on the signposted cycle route, the reward is some freewheeling downhill: 856ft of climbing with 341ft descent, vs 515ft up and 0ft down. It’s the 0 down that’s the killer.
The descent back to join the cycle route is epic: long and steady, with a view of the river Annan at the foot of the valley, the railway curving above it, then the motorway, then our road.
I suppose the one advantage of riding this route is that there’s only one road, which makes it much easier if you are trying to coincide with the ride of a famous sports star. Jens Voigt, the German former pro-cyclist, who rode the Tour de France a record-equalling 17 times (wearing the yellow jersey twice) is also on his way from Land’s End to John o’ Groats. He’s published the timings for each day’s ride in the hope that many people will join him along the way. At often 100+ miles per day, he’s going much too fast for us to join him, but it would be fantastic to say hello, especially as Tim was a fan.
From the day’s published timings we’ve worked out where we’re most likely to coincide, so we stop by the roadside just by the turning for Moffat, hoping we haven’t missed them while we were getting breakfast. The occasional truck goes past, but no cyclists. About 20 minutes later we see a light coming steadily along the road, and as it grows closer we can see a small group of riders. Jens is at the front in his distinctive jersey.
The others were sure he would shoot past as if he were riding the Tour, but I’m convinced he will stop for us if we ask him to. I position my bike central to the carriageway and start waving when the group is close enough to see us. And of course, he stops, and tells us he was expecting us – Stephen must have put in a word yesterday.
We chat for a short while and laugh at the difference between our kit, these pro cyclists and club riders who have nothing but a titanium frame to pull up the hills, and us with all of our camping gear and luggage. I tell him why we’re riding, in tribute to our friend Tim, and hand him a sticker for his top tube. Watching him stick our sticker to his bike makes me well up. He has no idea how much this would mean to Tim.
The next few miles are a huge mixture of emotions: the buzz of the meeting, the sadness that Tim’s not here to be part of it, and the gratitude (and disbelief) that Jens Voigt is now carrying our friend with him on his bike.
The final miles of the ride pass slowly, but that was to be expected. We have dinner at Cairn Lodge services – an absolute oasis on this drag of a day! – before dropping down to the farm where we’re camping.
Stats for the day: 96km riding, 936m climbing
Accommodation: Collierhall Farm Caravan Site. Sorry to say, an absolute rip-off! £20 each for single bikes and tents, and dreadful facilities. If you have to stay here, take a shower at Cairn lodge services before arriving! (which we all wished we had done…)
Ride for Tim 
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