Day 15: Kinross to Pitlochry

We must be strong now, or perhaps we’re just used to it, but we barely register the hills today. We’re on another route that paces a motorway, but this time it’s on a road that climbs into the hills then plunges back to the valley, to cross and climb the other side. Each rise and fall brings another sweet village, another vista and another wild freewheel until we reach the River Tay at Perth. 

Yet again we’re in search of a bike shop: I’ve popped another spoke, which is two more than I’ve ever done while touring. While Mark’s wheel troubles are now over with his new wheel, I’m going to make do with the spoke fix and hope it holds to Inverness and beyond. 

Our ever-changing team now consists of Andy (bringing our Andy count level with our Ian count) who will ride with us to Pitlochry, Alan who has one more day with us, and H, who joined us in Kinross and turns for home at Perth. 

The Tay guides us out of the city, then we wind once more through the hills northwards towards Dunkeld and pick up Raz just shy of the town. We’re all charmed by the place, with its picturesque bridge, its delightful high street and its overflowing bakery which is ready with all the treats we could wish to eat (including a vegan haggis roll for me!)

Raz leads us expertly the rest of the way into Pitlochry, following the cycle route upstream along the Tay, then crossing over to the Tummel valley. The route is thick with woodland and she regales us with her local knowledge and work with Scottish Wildlife Trust. We all agree that this is one of the best stretches so far: quintessential Scottish pine forest, river views and the occasional detail of an intricate bridge or castle. 

Pitlochry is heaving: no surprise for a centre of outdoors activity at the height of summer. Despite its popularity, there are actually few options for camping in Pitlochry, so this is the first time I left the schedule blank in favour of pitching up in a quiet spot wherever we can find one. This is technically ‘wild’ camping, although I’m reluctant to call it ‘wild’ because that sounds trendy or extreme, and we’re neither. We’re just camping in the forest next to a loch, which we use instead of a shower. 

One of the things Tim loved about Scotland was the freedom to do this: camp where you choose, rather than in an official site. It’s not about saving money, but about finding what you need from what nature provides. Mark and Lorenzo were a bit apprehensive about finding a spot (as was I!) but once we’ve settled in our little space in the trees, we all agree this is absolutely magical.

Stats for the day: 79km riding, 768 climbing

Accommodation: camping in the forest at Faskally, next to the loch. There were a few signs as we rolled along the forest tracks that said no overnight cars and no car-based camping, so we assumed it would be OK with our bikes. Which it was: we spoke to a passing ranger and were told it was fine to camp as long as we didn’t light any fires. The toilet in the picnic area at the top of the hill was handy!